2019 Lignier-Michelot Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru
The Lignier family have deep roots in the village of Morey Saint Denis and own 10.5 hectares of some of the very best vineyard sites in this village,along with plots in the two neighbouring villages of Chambolle Musigny and Gevrey Chambertin. In the last 10 years Virgile Lignier has modified his wine-making using whole-bunch vinification ranging from 30-100% depending on the vintage and the vineyard, and he has also reduced the percentage of new oak for maturation with most wines seeing around 30% making its effect seamless in the final wines. They are wines which are often very seductive at a young age which also clearly have the potential for ageing superbly. This very young domaine is now regarded among the very best in the Cotes de Nuits.
An ultra-spicy and markedly floral nose combines notes of red cherry, wild currant and earth with those of exotic tea and leather nuances. The polished but concentrated and intense middle weight flavors display a lovely sense of verve that carries over to the mineral-driven and well-balanced finale. This almost creamy and mildly warm effort is perhaps not quite as fresh as the Clos de la Roche, but I suspect that the nose will recover once it receives a thorough aeration and my projected range accords the benefit of the doubt that it will. Drink 2037+.
Allen Meadows - Burghound
The 2019 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru is made with 100% whole bunches and matured in used oak this year and that is evident on the nose with open, transparent scents of blackberry, briary and crushed rock aromas. Less opulent than the Clos de la Roche, this is slightly more austere but no less captivating. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, great depth and cohesion, structured towards the finish with touches of melted tar and tobacco. Superb. Drink 2025 - 2050.
Neal Martin - Vinous
Virgile farms a plot of vines which was replanted in 2003. A little less dense in colour, but with the classic ripe hedonistic style. This is less remarkable on the palate than the Clos de la Roche but I love the long, fine finish. Actually, the fruit builds very well, with good length, this is growing on me.
Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy