2019 Lignier-Michelot Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
The Lignier family have deep roots in the village of Morey Saint Denis and own 10.5 hectares of some of the very best vineyard sites in this village,along with plots in the two neighbouring villages of Chambolle Musigny and Gevrey Chambertin. In the last 10 years Virgile Lignier has modified his wine-making using whole-bunch vinification ranging from 30-100% depending on the vintage and the vineyard, and he has also reduced the percentage of new oak for maturation with most wines seeing around 30% making its effect seamless in the final wines. They are wines which are often very seductive at a young age which also clearly have the potential for ageing superbly. This very young domaine is now regarded among the very best in the Cotes de Nuits.
Very ripe and quite fresh aromas consist of plum liqueur, violet, lavender, leather, warm earth and spice wisps. The dense, palate coating and seductively textured big-bodied flavors possess a plush mouthfeel before terminating in an almost painfully intense finale. This is a bit and exceptionally powerful CdlR that delivers superb length and about the only nit worthy of mention is a trace of warmth. In short, this is a knockout but note well that its constructed accordingly and is not likely to make for especially good early drinking; indeed it may be 25 years before we see this beauty at its full apogee. Drink 2039+.
Allen Meadows - Burghound
The 2019 Clos de La Roche Grand Cru contains 80% whole bunches this year and underwent just a couple of punch-downs. There is a tiny amount of reduction on the nose as I taste it, gradually opening to reveal raspberry, blackcurrant and violet aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins matched with a very fine bead of acidity. This is a very cohesive and refined Grand Cru with a lilting, carefree finish that belies its inherent complexity and persistent. Easy to under-estimate this, I am sure it will age with style. Drink 2024 - 2050.
Neal Martin - Vinous
80% whole bunch. Virgile now has 0.80ha to play with, the latest addition being old vines. Planting dates now range from 1944 to 1990. Gorgeous deep purple. This Clos de la Roche has a brilliant bouquet with blue fruit mixed in to a vast range of deep complex red and black notes, both acidity and tannins in the right place. There is a classic grainy texture here too and wonderful length.
Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy