2019 Envinate Taganan Tinto
Envínate, which literally translates as “Wine Yourself,” is the project of four young passionate winemakers: Roberto Santana (based in the Canaries), Jose Martinez (Almansa), Laura Ramos (Murcia) and Alfonso Torrente (Ribeira Sacra). The four met while studying oenology in Alicante in 2005 and formed a collective based on a shared philosophy of wine and a desire to explore the ancient, Atlantic influenced terroirs of western Spain.
In 2008, the group bought their first vineyard in Ribeira Sacra, then took control of vineyards on the north side of Tenerife, and followed with a single patch of Tinta Amarela in Extremadura. Finally, in 2012, the group began working with a site in Almansa, where Jose lives and works, planted to Garnacha Tintorera. In each region, they work old, previously abandoned vineyards, but importantly for a project with such spread, one of the team lives full time in each location, working the vineyards year round.
Táganan is both the name of a village on the very north eastern tip of Tenerife and a local term for steep slope. Envínate make two reds and two whites from this village; Táganan Tinto and Blanco, which come from multiple old parcels and two crus, parcelas Campanario and Margalagua. All the wines are field blends containing a dizzying array of obscure local varieties grown on very old bush vines in the steep volcanic soils overlooking the ocean.
The 2019 Táganan Tinto, the village red from Taganana, was produced with grapes from different vineyards and altitudes that range between 75 and 400 meters, from vines that are 50 to 150 years of age planted on old basalt soils. Both 2019 and 2020 were very dry and low yielding, a constant here since 2016; and they had to change the pruning of the old vines to try to adapt to these dry conditions, yet they still saw a 60% reduction in their yields. This is a blend of mostly Listán Negro and Negramoll but also some Mulata, Listán Gacho (pink/rosé) and Malvasía Rosada. The wine is only 12% alcohol and has notable freshness. It fermented with 30% to 70% of stems, depending on the plot, and always with indigenous yeasts, and it matured with fine lees in well-seasoned, neutral 228-liter oak barrels for one year. It might be marginally riper than the 2020 and a little more rustic. 3,000 bottles (down from 5,000) were produced. It was bottled in December 2020. Drink 2022 - 2026.
Luis Gutiérrez - Wine Advocate (Feb 2022)
Aromas of sweet tobacco, red fruit, candied citrus and cracked black pepper. Slightly earthy. Medium body with firm, fine tannins and a lovely, subtle and fruity finish. Drink or hold.
JamesSuckling.com (October 2021)