2019 Domaine Taupenot-Merme Morey-Saint-Denis La Riotte Premier Cru
While based in Morey-Saint-Denis, Domaine Taupenot-Merme has collection of prime vineyards across both the Cote de Nuits and the Cote de Beaune. A significant proportion of their 13 hectare holdings are in premier and grand cru plots, including the grands crus Clos des Lambrays, Charmes-Chambertin, Corton-Rognet and Mazoyères-Chambertin. Much of these vineyards contain old vines which have been supplemented with newer plantings from massale selections of their strongest vines.
Seventh-generation Romain Taupenot is in charge of winemaking, aided by his sister Virginie. Organic farming has been practiced since 2001, and once harvested grapes are 100% de-stemmed before a cold soak and indigenous fermentation. Oak use is also sympathetic with only 25% new oak used for the village wines and up to 40% for the grand and premier cru. While the wines can carry a healthy degree of richness, they are always balanced by freshness so as to be a pure and faithful representation of their origin.
La Riotte is one of Morey's leading premiers crus, with mostly very old vines and the same geology as Mazoyères containing calcareous soil rich in clay. Taupenot-Merme has a 0.57ha parcel and the estate’s vines are more than 60 years old on average.
Earthier and less elegant though still pretty aromas are composed by notes of plum and dark berries laced with hints of spice and floral, especially violet. There is again very good verve and freshness to the delicious and caressing yet quite punchy medium-bodied flavors that possess a seductive texture thanks to the sappy dry extract that also serves to buffer the moderately firm tannic spine shaping the slightly longer and more complex finale. This is one to consider, especially for aging over the mid to even longer-term. Drink 2029+.
Allen Meadows - Burghound
The 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis La Riotte 1er Cru is stubborn and austere on the nose at the moment, red berry fruit and damp loam aromas/woodland scents gradually unfurling, hints of cepes. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit mixed with white pepper and sage. Classic in style, nicely focused, this builds in the mouth and exerts good grip on the finish with impressive length on the aftertaste. Great potential but will benefit from cellaring. Drink 2024 - 2038.
Neal Martin - Vinous
Fine crimson purple, the nose is quite restrained, before a significant weight of fruit, a touch of heat too, dark raspberry notes, and a touch of alcohol to finish. Just enough acidity, slightly dry tannins.
Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy