2019 Domaine Taupenot-Merme Mazoyeres-Chambertin Grand Cru
While based in Morey-Saint-Denis, Domaine Taupenot-Merme has collection of prime vineyards across both the Cote de Nuits and the Cote de Beaune. A significant proportion of their 13 hectare holdings are in premier and grand cru plots, including the grands crus Clos des Lambrays, Charmes-Chambertin, Corton-Rognet and Mazoyères-Chambertin. Much of these vineyards contain old vines which have been supplemented with newer plantings from massale selections of their strongest vines.
Seventh-generation Romain Taupenot is in charge of winemaking, aided by his sister Virginie. Organic farming has been practiced since 2001, and once harvested grapes are 100% de-stemmed before a cold soak and indigenous fermentation. Oak use is also sympathetic with only 25% new oak used for the village wines and up to 40% for the grand and premier cru. While the wines can carry a healthy degree of richness, they are always balanced by freshness so as to be a pure and faithful representation of their origin.
The Taupenot-Merme family owns 0.85Ha of vines in Mazoyeres-Chambertin grand cru, spread over two plots planted in 1958 and 1959.
This has the kind of reduction that the Burgundians call bourgeon de cassis (literally cassis blossom), which isn't unpleasant so much as it's atypical. The good news is that this type of reduction rarely lasts. There is excellent volume to the relatively fine, and finely detailed, middle weight flavors that possess a sleek muscularity before culminating in a mineral-driven, youthfully austere and sneaky long finish that isn't quite as structured. These two wines offer about the same level of quality but are really quite different in style and character. Drink 2031+.
Allen Meadows - Burghound
The 2019 Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru has a little more intensity than the Charmes-Chambertin, damp undergrowth, moss, light leafy aromas tincturing the mainly red fruit and developing more and more earthiness with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity. Taut and fresh with perhaps the most saline finish of all Romain Taupenot’s cuvées this year, it is destined to be a wonderful Mazoyères-Chambertin for sure. Best in show chez Taupenot-Merme. Drink 2024 - 2050.
Neal Martin - Vinous
Medium deep crimson purple. There is significant weight of fruit here and it stands up a bit further than the Charmes, though again it is a pretty weighty beast, with plenty of power. However, the fruit fills the middle a little better, and retains greater freshness to finish. Long succulent finish.
Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy