2019 Domaine Taupenot-Merme Gevrey-Chambertin Bel Air Premier Cru
While based in Morey-Saint-Denis, Domaine Taupenot-Merme has collection of prime vineyards across both the Cote de Nuits and the Cote de Beaune. A significant proportion of their 13 hectare holdings are in premier and grand cru plots, including the grands crus Clos des Lambrays, Charmes-Chambertin, Corton-Rognet and Mazoyères-Chambertin. Much of these vineyards contain old vines which have been supplemented with newer plantings from massale selections of their strongest vines.
Seventh-generation Romain Taupenot is in charge of winemaking, aided by his sister Virginie. Organic farming has been practiced since 2001, and once harvested grapes are 100% de-stemmed before a cold soak and indigenous fermentation. Oak use is also sympathetic with only 25% new oak used for the village wines and up to 40% for the grand and premier cru. While the wines can carry a healthy degree of richness, they are always balanced by freshness so as to be a pure and faithful representation of their origin.
Pungent aromas of firm reduction and wood make this tough to judge at present. More interesting are the vibrant, well-detailed and sleekly textured middle weight flavors that brim with minerality on the youthfully austere, focused and sneaky long finish that displays good grip. This too should amply benefit from at least mid-term cellaring. Drink 2029+.
Allen Meadows - Burghound
The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Bel Air 1er Cru is attractive and fresh on the nose, melted tar and pencil box scents percolating through the red and black fruit, a hint of orange rind with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, finely tuned with such pretty red cherry and wild strawberry notes on the tart finish. Taupenot referred to this as his "baby Bèze" - a perfectly apt description. Drink 2024 - 2048.
Neal Martin - Vinous
Mid red, pretty red fruit bouquet, alpine strawberry and light raspberry, digs down very nicely, good acidity behind, fresh lighter soft red fruit on the palate with very good persistence.
Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy