2019 Domaine Taupenot-Merme Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d'Orveau Premier Cru
While based in Morey-Saint-Denis, Domaine Taupenot-Merme has collection of prime vineyards across both the Cote de Nuits and the Cote de Beaune. A significant proportion of their 13 hectare holdings are in premier and grand cru plots, including the grands crus Clos des Lambrays, Charmes-Chambertin, Corton-Rognet and Mazoyères-Chambertin. Much of these vineyards contain old vines which have been supplemented with newer plantings from massale selections of their strongest vines.
Seventh-generation Romain Taupenot is in charge of winemaking, aided by his sister Virginie. Organic farming has been practiced since 2001, and once harvested grapes are 100% de-stemmed before a cold soak and indigenous fermentation. Oak use is also sympathetic with only 25% new oak used for the village wines and up to 40% for the grand and premier cru. While the wines can carry a healthy degree of richness, they are always balanced by freshness so as to be a pure and faithful representation of their origin.
Taupenot-Merme owns 0.45Ha of vines over two parcels of this top premier cru, with the vast majority of plantings dating back to 1942 plus a small plot planted in 1973.
Moderate reduction renders the nose unreadable today, but I suspect that it will dissipate once the wine is racked for the bottling. Otherwise there is a refined yet solidly powerful mouthfeel to the medium weight flavors that also exude evident minerality on the impressively long and well-balanced finale. This moderately firm effort will also need to add depth, but the potential aging curve of this wine should permit that to occur. Drink 2029+.
Allen Meadows - Burghound
The 2019 Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d'Orveau 1er Cru has a showy bouquet with raspberry, cranberry, bergamot and tea leaf aromas, perhaps just needing a little more cohesion that should develop during the remainder of its maturation. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, black fruit laced with graphite leading to a fresh, classically styled finish that stylistically reminds me of Morey than Chambolle. Time will let it make up its mind what it wants to grow up and become, but it will be quite excellent. Drink 2023 - 2037.
Neal Martin - Vinous
Picked early this year, as the grapes ripened rapidly without getting blocked by hydric stress. Bright purple with a sunny gourmand style, blacker fruit behind but with a fine ripe strawberry note also through the middle. A touch of sucrosity here but a very promising wine.
Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy