2019 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs
A man of the vineyards, Arnaud Mortet is driven to produce perfect Pinot fruit from meticulously tended vineyards. He is without question one of the finest growers of the entire Côte and as great wines are the products of great fruit, it is no coincidence that he is producing some of the finest wines in Burgundy today. There is no doubt that the wines are more refined than those produced while his father was alive, yet they share the same intensity and potential longevity. Arnaud is continuing Denis' dream of producing more refined wines, openly getting closer stylistically to the wines of his uncle, Charles Rousseau, without sacrificing depth and intensity or consistency across the range.
This is at once earthier and more reserved with its combination of red and dark berries along with hints of game, underbrush and a forest floor character. There is a bit more volume to the dense and intense medium-bodied flavors that also exude evident minerality on the chiseled and wonderfully refreshing finish. The supporting tannins are noticeably firmer, and this is going to require at least some patience. Recommended as this too is an excellent villages. Drink 2029+.
Allen Meadows - Burghound
The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs is especially elegant and charming in this vintage, bursting with aromas of cherries and raspberries mingled with sweet spices and peonies. Medium to full-bodied, supple and enveloping, with fine concentration and a chassis of powdery structuring tannins that discreetly remind us of this cuvée's Brochon origins on the finish, it's seamless and complete. Drink 2025 - 2045.
William Kelley - Wine Advocate (Jan 2022)
The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin "Mes Cinq Terroirs" possesses darker fruit than the Cuvée de Très Vieilles Vignes, blackberry commingled with bilberry and briary, more sous-bois characteristics and a very light slate-like aroma. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins. This feels very harmonious with an almost satin-like texture, gentle grip with superb tension on the finish. This has always been one of Mortet's best "entry-level" cuvées and this has real class and pixelation. Give it 2-3 years in bottle for it to show its best. Wonderful. Drink 2023-2038.
Neal Martin - Vinous
All the vines are at the northern end of the appellation, from outside the winery through to Brochon. This emblematic cuvée sees 25% new wood and one third whole bunch vinification. Dense purple, with a reserved nose, which is biding its time, nonetheless suggesting that all is in place. The fruit profile sits perfectly on the cusp of red and black, with a touch of liquorice, excellent length, and an admirable finish. I love the reserved quality of this wine, which will develop beautifully in the long term.
Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy