2019 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux Premier Cru
A man of the vineyards, Arnaud Mortet is driven to produce perfect Pinot fruit from meticulously tended vineyards. He is without question one of the finest growers of the entire Côte and as great wines are the products of great fruit, it is no coincidence that he is producing some of the finest wines in Burgundy today. There is no doubt that the wines are more refined than those produced while his father was alive, yet they share the same intensity and potential longevity. Arnaud is continuing Denis' dream of producing more refined wines, openly getting closer stylistically to the wines of his uncle, Charles Rousseau, without sacrificing depth and intensity or consistency across the range.
An intensely floral-suffused and again exuberantly fresh nose reflects additional breadth in the form of spice, smoke, earth and forest floor. The sleek, intense and mineral-driven flavors possess lovely detail but not nearly the same density of material before culminating in a balanced and lingering finish that isn't quite as complex though that may well change with time bottle. Worth considering. Drink 2029+.
Allen Meadows - Burghound
The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Champeaux unwinds in the glass with aromas of sweet red berries, peonies, orange rind, forest floor and rose petals. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and perfumed, it's deep and layered, with lively acids, melting tannins and a long, saline finish. It's a concentrated, seamless wine that will offer a broad drinking window. Drink 2025 - 2050.
William Kelley - Wine Advocate (Jan 2022)
The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux 1er Cru does not quite have the complexity of the Lavaux on the nose, but it is certainly intense with blackberries, wild hedgerow and touches of salted liquorice developing in the glass. The palate is light on its feet thanks to the very fine tannins that frame the predominant red fruit laced with white pepper and bay leaf. This is very well structured on the finish and possesses the length of the Lavaux. This is very impressive and it should age supremely well in bottle, perhaps the dark horse of Mortet's 2019s. Drink 2023-2042.
Neal Martin - Vinous
Two big plots in their own ‘clos’ and two little plots below. This is one of the vineyards, which Arnaud works only by horse and by hand, and he feels that he has really seen a qualitative difference as a result. Rich imperial purple with a super sensual bouquet, tear-jerkingly harmonious. Gloriously sensual behind. 5 star.
Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy