2019 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St Jacques Premier Cru
A man of the vineyards, Arnaud Mortet is driven to produce perfect Pinot fruit from meticulously tended vineyards. He is without question one of the finest growers of the entire Côte and as great wines are the products of great fruit, it is no coincidence that he is producing some of the finest wines in Burgundy today. There is no doubt that the wines are more refined than those produced while his father was alive, yet they share the same intensity and potential longevity. Arnaud is continuing Denis' dream of producing more refined wines, openly getting closer stylistically to the wines of his uncle, Charles Rousseau, without sacrificing depth and intensity or consistency across the range.
Here the wood, while still subtle, is certainly noticeable on the markedly spicy and floral aromas of earthy dark berries along with a top note of pomegranate. There is slightly more size, weight and muscle to the delineated and powerful flavors that culminate in a firmly austere, compact and strikingly long finale. This intensely mineral-driven effort is terrific with superb aging potential. Drink 2034+.
Allen Meadows - Burghound
A high point of the range in this vintage is the 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques, a medium to full-bodied, ample and perfumed wine evocative of sweet berry fruit and plums mingled with rose petals, peonies, orange rind and warm spices. Layered and seamless, with melting tannins and a succulent core of fruit, it concludes with a long, saline finish. Drink 2025 - 2050.
William Kelley - Wine Advocate (Jan 2022)
There was a particularly small yield in Lavaux St-Jacques this year, alas as the wines in that sector are exceptional this year. 40% of whole bunches retained but with the large stems removed by hand here. A beautiful glowing purple, gorgeous red and black fruit, sensual and very long, with good intensity, perfumed and balanced.
Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy