2019 Domaine Denis Mortet Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
A man of the vineyards, Arnaud Mortet is driven to produce perfect Pinot fruit from meticulously tended vineyards. He is without question one of the finest growers of the entire Côte and as great wines are the products of great fruit, it is no coincidence that he is producing some of the finest wines in Burgundy today. There is no doubt that the wines are more refined than those produced while his father was alive, yet they share the same intensity and potential longevity. Arnaud is continuing Denis' dream of producing more refined wines, openly getting closer stylistically to the wines of his uncle, Charles Rousseau, without sacrificing depth and intensity or consistency across the range.
Although Mortet’s 0.32 hectares of vines are located in the lower part of this historic vineyard, they are some of the oldest (more than 60 years) and most fastidiously farmed vines in the entire Clos.
An exceptionally floral-suffused nose speaks of various dark berries that are trimmed in earth and noticeable but not invasive wood. There is again excellent volume, density and power to the large-scaled flavors that aren't nearly as mineral-driven but do offer even better depth on the youthfully austere finale where a hint of bitter cherry pit character slowly emerges. This too should amply repay extended keeping. Drink 2034+.
Allen Meadows - Burghound
The 2019 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, which comes from Mortet's 0.32-hectares of 50-year old vines, is clean and precise on the nose, beautifully defined with pure Morello cherry, wild strawberry, rose petal and orange sorbet scents that are utterly seductive. Brilliant focus. The palate is beautifully balanced with filigree tannins, layers of sorbet-fresh red fruit cut through with razor-sharp acidity. This must constitute one of the finest Clos de Vougeot that Mortet has ever overseen. The epitome of intensity and elegance. Drink 2023-2050.
Neal Martin - Vinous
Picked early, in the lower part of the Clos, but with some stones in the soil. 45% of whole bunches retained but with the large stems removed by hand here. Beautiful purple with an amazingly floral nose, lively rose and raspberry notes on the palate, with a suavely sensual balanced finish. Great ageing potential, and a really long finish.
Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy