2019 Comando G La Bruja de Rozas Garnacha
Comando G is the joint project of Fernando Garcia, of Marañones, and Daniel Landi, of his eponymous label. Based in the town of Rozas del Puerto Real, high in the Sierra de Gredos, the Comando G team produce some of the most celebrated and sought-after wines in Spain. The combination of poor granitic soils, old vine Garnacha, high rainfall and extreme altitude results in ethereally light, delicate wines that show the effortless structure, precision and poise that is usually associated with high-end Burgundy.
The 2019 La Bruja de Rozas was one of the few 2019s already bottled when I tasted the whole range in November 2020. This is a village Garnacha from Las Rozas de Puerto Real, their first approach to the grape, trying to capture the essence of the fresh fruit and the fluidity of the wine. 2019 is a ripe vintage, and the wine is a little more powerful, juicy and balanced, with rich aromas and flavors. It comes from different plots of old vines ranging from 40 to 65 years of age and planted at some 900 meters in altitude on sandy granite soils in a zone that has plenty of rain, averaging 800 liters per year. Like all of their vineyards, these plots are worked organically and biodynamically. Each vineyard fermented separately in oak vats with indigenous yeasts with a soft maceration. The wine matured in oak vats of different sizes, ranging from 1,500 to 6,000 liters. The 2019 effect seems to be quite mild here; the wine follows the profile of the 2018, despite being a little riper, and it's still very balanced. There are notes of flowers, basil and a touch of bacon intermixed with the wild berries and herbs. There's a little more concentration, and the tannins are a little chalkier and more austere. But there is no excess ripeness or anything out of place, and it has acidity and length and finishes dry and mineral. 41,853 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2020. Drink 2021 - 2028
Luis Gutiérrez - Wine Advocate (Nov 2020)