2019 Cobaw Ridge Chardonnay
Is it a purple patch with Cobaw Ridge? Unsure, but the wines have been scorching over recent releases. The vineyard is mature, the biodynamic farming assured and well versed, the winemaking lo-fi but judicious. Anyway, chardonnay off this site is singing, in various guises. Here’s another belter.
It’s not just that it’s so compelling and delicious to drink but that it gives a person on the end of the glass an insight into complexity of chardonnay without overt edifice of winemaking. Yep, it opens with some flinty, struck match sniffs that allude to technique, but the wine is more about the dimensions of grape flavour, minerally charm, savouriness from yeast and lees and the skinsy chew of taut berries. It smells and tastes a little like sea spray has whipped over green apple juice that’s had hazelnuts steeped in it all. Far out. The tension, the length, the understated juiciness, the freshness and the general sense of energy. So, so good. Drink 2021 - 2030.
Mike Bennie - Wine Front (March 2021)