2019 Clemens Busch Marienburg Fahrlay Riesling Grosses Gewachs

Clemens and Rita Busch are one of the pioneering organic, and now biodynamic, producers working in Germany. As the fifth generation winemaker at this estate, Clemens stopped using herbicides in 1976, then in 1984 he and wife Rita converted to organics. They were among the first in Germany to commit to organic viticulture and led the movement establishing an association of organic growers in 1986. The estate converted to biodynamics entirely in 2005, earning certifications from the EU and Respekt-Biodyn.

Based in Pünderich, almost all of the vines they work are on the slopes of the Marienburg, and unique for the Mosel, feature parcels planted on the three main colours of slate; blue, red, and grey. In the winery Clemens works with wild yeasts, and ferments mostly in very old 1000-litre barrels. Nothing is added to the wines at any stage, apart from a touch of sulphur at bottling. Most of the wines at the Busch estate are vinified dry, and they are rich, complex and often powerful. They age very beautifully, gaining in complexity and texture. However, the sweet and noble sweet wines from the estate are also impressive, ranking among the finest wines made anywhere on the Mosel.

Other Reviews....
The 2019 Marienburg GG Fahrlay is perfectly ripe and concentrated on the densely aromatic nose that intertwines ripe, intense and flinty fruit with fascinating notes of crushed stones and herbs, yet everything is already marvelously interwoven and balanced as well as pure, precise and crystalline, with lemon zest notes. Full-bodied, intense and crystalline on the palate, this is a rich, concentrated, perfectly ripe and aromatic Fahrlay with a long, intense, elegant, crystalline and persistently salty finish. This would be rich and bolder if there were no old vines in blue slate. This is an impressive wine that was bottled just a few days before I tasted it in September 2020. Drink 2025 - 2045.
96 points
Stephan Reinhardt - Wine Advocate (Oct 2020)

The 2019er Marienburg Fahrlay GG, as it is referred to on the main part of the label, was fermented spontaneously in traditional oak casks with fruit harvested in a blue slate part of the Marienburg vineyard. It offers a superbly engaging nose made of cassis, grapefruit zest, citrusy fruits, ginger, elderflower, fine spices, herbs, and smoke. The wine proves gorgeously packed with racy flavors and smoke on the intensely flavored palate and leaves a superbly playful feel of whipped cream, earthy spices, and grapefruit zest in the long and subtly smoky finish. This is a stunning dry Riesling in the making! Drink 2024-2034.
96 points
Jean Fisch & David Rayer - Mosel Fine Wines