2019 Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grezeaux
Les Grézeaux is drawn from the Estate’s oldest vines, aged between 40 and 60 years, planted on a gravely terroir over limestone and clay on the Sonnay plateau above Cravant in front of the Baudry cellar. Matthieu Baudry notes that it is a parcel that performs best in warm, dry vintages, and so, this is only made in such years (no Grézeaux was made in 2013, for example). Harvesting is by hand and fermentation takes place in cement vats for three to four weeks. It is then matured in large, five-year-old cask for 15 months before being bottled unfiltered.
Rich and ripe, yet perfectly formed, expect a melange of blackberry, wild currant, violet and thyme to go with the slightly rugged and savoury, mineral/tapenade aromas. Extravagantly flavoured, with slow-building tannins buried under the weight of succulent fruit, this palate-staining wine has a depth and concentration we rarely see in Cabernet Franc. A wine to savour by an open fire with slow cooked lamb shanks.
Sourced from a single vineyard located at the bottom of Chinon's slope on alluvial/clay soils, the 2019 Chinon Les Grézeaux is currently a bit shy in terms of revealing its fruit flavors. It’s also a hint reductive with its smoky bacon characters, but that's unimportant. What matters is the core of fruit and excellent focus. It's very relaxed and fluid with mouthwatering acidity. The tannins are more serious than the front and midpalate would have suggested and betray a little grittiness. Aged 15 months in cement, this could be opened in one to two years, but the concentration and structure offer drinking over a decade. Drink 2022 - 2030.
Rebecca Gibb MW - Vinous
An iconic vineyard for the domaine, situated opposite Bernard’s house, with soils of gravel and sandy clay. This vintage has been aged in cement cuve where it will rest for fifteen months; the cuvée has not seen a barrel since the 2007 vintage. A gorgeous black-violet hue in the glass, the noses shimmers with a dark, pure and focused intensity, with scents of violet, peony, black cherry and currant. Texturally silky, fresh and pure on the palate, it maintains a supple style through the middle, with great energy and vivacity. This is just so complete, polished and stylish – could you ask for more in a wine? Definitely one for the (by which I mean my) cellar.
Chris Kissack - The Wine Doctor