2018 Yeringberg Viognier
The de Pury family have been farming in the Yarra Valley since 1863. Once a famed vineyard in the 19th century, the demise of fine table wines saw production cease in 1921. Guill & Katherine de Pury decided to replant the vineyard in 1969, gradually starting to rebuild the reputation of this historic estate. Today it is helmed by Sandra de Pury, becoming the fourth-generation winemaker at Yeringberg. Produced from some of the oldest vines in the Yarra Valley, the low-yielding vines result in wines of great age-ability and finesse.
This is exceptional viognier. Benchmark. Be it Australian or French. This level of warmth is necessitated to showcase the exuberance of the variety: honeysuckle, apricot and ginger glaze. The billowing phenolic chew beautifully melded to a gentle wash of acidity. A plume of flavour brushing the cheeks. This could do with more phenolic pucker, but very fine. Drink by 2023.
Ned Goodwin - James Halliday's Wine Companion (March 2020)
If you enjoy Viognier, then here’s a top example.
All the perfume. Laden with candied ginger, jasmine, apricot and spice. It’s fleshy and viscous, but keeps itself tight and spicy. There’s some nutty flavour in the mix too, and a long fragrant finish. Sure, there’s a slight warmth, but mainly it adds positively to texture and weight. Very good. Drink 2020 - 2023.
Gary Walsh - The Wine Front (December 2020)