2018 Samuel Billaud Mont de Milieu Chablis Premier Cru
While the origins of this domaine date back to Charles-Louis-Noel Billaud in 1815, it's the current generation winemaker Samuel Billaud that has made waves with the exceptional quality of his wines produced since the creation of this project in 2009. Following the sale of the family business Domaine Billaud-Simon to Faiveley in 2014, Samuel received further prized parcels of land and now makes wines from five of the grand cru vineyards, and five of the top premier cru vineyards. The wines are vinified in a mixture of stainless steel and large old wood barrels, the latter mainly for the premier and grand cru wines.
As is usually the case with this wine, there is a trace of exoticism sitting atop the subtly oaked aromas of petrol, white and yellow orchard fruit, mineral reduction and soft iodine nuances. There is fine volume and energy to the middle weight flavors that possess reasonably good mid-palate density thanks to the sappy dry extract that coats the palate on the intensely saline, dry and focused finale. This is sufficiently forward that it could be enjoyed on the younger side but this is a wine that should have no trouble rewarding up to a decade of keeping.
Allen Meadows - Burghound
The 2018 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu is also performing very well, unwinding in the glass with scents of citrus oil, spring blossom, crisp green orchard fruit and grapefruit. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, it's nicely concentrated, with a tightly wound core, racy acids and a long, beautifully defined finish. This has turned out beautifully.
William Kelley - Wine Advocate (July 2020)
The 2018 Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru comes from 40-year-old vines and sees 18 months on the fine lees. It has a lilting bouquet of fresh Granny Smith apple, pear and light almond aromas. The palate is taut and fresh on the entry, displaying moderate weight and demonstrating fine salinity and spiciness toward the finish. There is a touch of conservatism to this Chablis, but it should still drink well for the next decade or so.
Neal Martin - Vinous
Clear pale lemon. There is some volume of fruit here, fully ripe and the first to be picked. The front half of the palate is generous with yellow fruit, then it is clear and pure behind, stony and chiselled. Needs more time to come together. Very intense though. Impressive and certainly doesn’t lack concentration.
Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy