2018 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru
After leaving his family domaine in 2005, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey has established himself as one of the rising stars of Burgundy. Pierre-Yves has built a strong reputation for crafting exquisite white Burgundy that display energy and vitality. The white wines are whole bunch pressed, fermented with natural yeasts, aged on lees for up to 18 months in mostly in 350 litre barrels with no lees stirring and no filtration. The corks used come from one tiny supplier and are extra long and extra wide (55mm x 25mm) for the village, 1er cru and Grand cru wines and are untreated with no paraffin and the bottles are then sealed with soft wax to ensure no problems with premature oxidation. The resulting wines are built to age classically up to 10 years or more.
A restrained, ultra-fresh and distinctly floral nose reflects notes of various white orchard fruit aromas, lemon zest and discreet wood toast. There is outstanding volume to the rich and succulent broad-shouldered flavors that possess focused power on the beautifully long and sappy mineral-infused finish that is shaped by citrus-tinged acidity. This isn't quite as structured as the Chevalier, but it too is promising.
Allen Meadows - Burghound
Smoky and quite subtle on the nose but the oak gives that creamy/mealy lees invitation. Really tightly wound but with amazing power. Not as open as the Perrières but the centre of gravity is perfect. Powerful and elegant. Pierces your heart.
Julia Harding MW - jancisrobinson.com
Two thirds En Charlemagne, one third Languettes, high up in Aloxe. Purchased grapes but they do much of the vineyard work. Pale fresh colour. Lively nose, racy, no especial depth. Starts quietly, but there is a burst of concentration at the back. Interesting aftertaste with a touch of liquorice.
Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy