2018 Louis Michel & Fils Montee de Tonnerre Chablis Premier Cru
Located on the right bank of the river Serein - as with the grands crus - the Montée de Tonnerre is the most prestigious of all the Chablis premiers crus. The domaine grows fruit on a total of four hectares which were planted in 1974. The soil is Kimmeridgian from the right bank; it’s sticky and features marl with marine fossils, rich in limestone pebbles.
Brilliant pale straw colour with a faint glimmer of green around the edges and a watery hue. Elevated fresh pear and green apple aromas have a slatey overlay picking up accents of lime, chalk and mineral along the way. The vibrant yet beautifully textured palate shows excellent drive and intensity with flavours of pear, subtle lime and citrus filling the mouth. Fine slatey mineral back drop with notions of oyster shell and fresh herb infusions also apparent. Dry racy finish with a long, generous yet precise aftertaste.
Drink over the next 5-6 years.
The 2018 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru is the most elegant and precise of the premiers crus in this range. Silky, floral and refined, the 2018 possesses striking nuance and total class. Lemon confit, wild flowers, white pepper and saline notes add freshness. More than anything else, the Montée de Tonnerre impresses with its saline-infused tension and persistence. Even in this warm vintage, it retains terrific energy and cut. I loved it.
Antonio Galloni – Vinous
This too is markedly floral in character with its airy and cool nose of citrus, seashore and shellfish hints. The mouth feel of the intense medium weight flavors is also quite sleek and even more mineral-driven on the classy, long and slightly more complex and structured finale. Drink 2027+
The 2018 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre is another success this year, delivering inviting aromas of citrus zest, crisp green apple, white flowers and oyster shell. Medium to full-bodied, with good depth and tension, it's one of the more tightly wound, structured wines in the cellar. Drink 2022-2038.
William Kelley – Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate