• 98

2018 Envinate Taganan Margalagua Tinto

Tenerife, SPAIN
$69. 99 Bottle
$839.88 Dozen
ABV: 12%
Closure: Cork

Envínate, which literally translates as “Wine Yourself,” is the project of four young passionate winemakers: Roberto Santana (based in the Canaries), Jose Martinez (Almansa), Laura Ramos (Murcia) and Alfonso Torrente (Ribeira Sacra). The four met while studying oenology in Alicante in 2005 and formed a collective based on a shared philosophy of wine and a desire to explore the ancient, Atlantic influenced terroirs of western Spain.

In 2008, the group bought their first vineyard in Ribeira Sacra, then took control of vineyards on the north side of Tenerife, and followed with a single patch of Tinta Amarela in Extremadura. Finally, in 2012, the group began working with a site in Almansa, where Jose lives and works, planted to Garnacha Tintorera. In each region, they work old, previously abandoned vineyards, but importantly for a project with such spread, one of the team lives full time in each location, working the vineyards year round.

Táganan is both the name of a village on the very north eastern tip of Tenerife and a local term for steep slope. Envínate make two reds and two whites from this village; Táganan Tinto and Blanco, which come from multiple old parcels and two crus, parcelas Campanario and Margalagua. All the wines are field blends containing a dizzying array of obscure local varieties grown on very old bush vines in the steep volcanic soils overlooking the ocean.

Other Reviews....
2018 was a cooler year than 2017, and I had high expectations for the 2018 Táganan Parcela Margalagua. This vineyard has been vinified and bottled separately since 2012 because it has a very strong personality, not surprisingly, because it's one of the most fascinating and exceptional vineyards I've ever seen in my life. Since 2015, they understood this place is about elegance and depth rather than power. The varietal breakdown is something like 88% red grapes—Negramoll and Listán Negro—and 12% Listán Blanco, the local strain of Palomino, from reddish, very rocky volcanic soils. Like most of the reds here, it's only 12% alcohol. It fermented with 100% stems and indigenous yeasts, and the élevage was with the lees in used, neutral 228-liter oak barrels without racking or added sulfur. This is a translucent bright ruby color, and it's aromatic, floral, spicy and mineral, expressive and super fresh, because of the year and because they have new cooler vineyards. It has lots of notes of violets and lilies. The flavors are pungent, precise, clean, symmetric and very elegant, with refined tannins and a tasty, somewhat salty finish. This is the best wine they have produced to date. Truly word-class. 2,400 bottles were filled in January 2020.
98 points
Luis Gutiérrez - Wine Advocate (Sept 2020)