2018 Domaine du Pelican Arbois Savagnin Ouille
Domaine du Pélican are based in Montigny-les-Arsures near Arbois in the Jura and was started in 2012 by Guillaume d’Angerville of Domaine Marquis d’Angerville in Volnay, Burgundy, and François Duvivier, régisseur at Domaine Marquis d’Angerville. The Domaine farms high quality terroirs located in and around the city of Arbois. The plots are among Jura’s finest, the very best being En Barbi and Grand Curoulet. Terroirs here are a mix of marly clay and gravels with varying exposures from north to south, are even more complex than in Burgundy. Whilst a broadly Burgundian approach is employed to wine-making, there is no doubting the individuality and Jurassien personality of the wines. The d’Angerville approach in the cellar has always been light-touch, one which is toned down even more for Domaine du Pélican, little new oak is used and élévage is shorter, lasting twelve months as opposed to eighteen in Volnay. Tanks and foudres are employed for ageing the reds, 500 litre casks for the Savagnin and traditional Burgundian barriques for the Chardonnay. The whites are both “topped up” as opposed to the more common oxidative Jura method.
The 2018 Arbois Savagnin Oiullé is fabulous. It presents a beguiling mélange of dried apricot, white flowers, crushed flowers, marzipan, sage and chamomile. The savory profile works so well with the wine’s oily, textured feel, while a hint of reduction adds character. Even with all of its obvious exotic character, the 2018 retains more than enough freshness and minerality to give the wine a real feeling of vibrancy that is impossible to miss. Quite frankly, this is an eye-opening wine.
Antonio Galloni - Vinous
Savagnin ouillé is the topped-up version of Savagnin, sometimes labelled Fleur de Savagnin or referred to by the variety’s synonym Traminer. They have been producing this style since their first vintage in 2012. This cuvée is made from many different parcels located in Arbois and Montigny-lès-Arsures. The soils are very diverse: multi-coloured Triassic marls; fallen rocks (calcareous scree) of Bajocian limestone over grey marl; and Liassic marly limestone. The grapes are lightly crushed before pressing, and fermentation is in foudres and barrels. One-third of the crop macerates with the skins for one night before being pressed. Aged in 500-litre barrels with 2% new oak for just over half of the crop. The balance is in foudre and vats.
This has notable intensity to the aroma, a display of varietal Savagnin character: green fruit, ripe creamy green apple. Intense, deep, powerful but so elegant, a touch spicy. Intense with herbal freshness. Fabulous depth, energy and persistence.
Julia Hardin MW - jancisrobinson.com