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  • 92

    2018 Domaine du Pelican Arbois Poulsard

    Jura, FRANCE
    $97. 99 Bottle
    $1175.88 Dozen
    ABV: 11.5%
    Closure: Cork

    Domaine du Pélican are based in Montigny-les-Arsures near Arbois in the Jura and was started in 2012 by Guillaume d’Angerville of Domaine Marquis d’Angerville in Volnay, Burgundy, and François Duvivier, régisseur at Domaine Marquis d’Angerville. The Domaine farms high quality terroirs located in and around the city of Arbois. The plots are among Jura’s finest, the very best being En Barbi and Grand Curoulet. Terroirs here are a mix of marly clay and gravels with varying exposures from north to south, are even more complex than in Burgundy. Whilst a broadly Burgundian approach is employed to wine-making, there is no doubting the individuality and Jurassien personality of the wines. The d’Angerville approach in the cellar has always been light-touch, one which is toned down even more for Domaine du Pélican, little new oak is used and élévage is shorter, lasting twelve months as opposed to eighteen in Volnay. Tanks and foudres are employed for ageing the reds, 500 litre casks for the Savagnin and traditional Burgundian barriques for the Chardonnay. The whites are both “topped up” as opposed to the more common oxidative Jura method.

    Other Reviews....
    The 2018 Arbois Poulsard is striking. Crushed rose petal, savory herbs, mint, chalk, sweet red cherry, sweet tobacco and pine give the 2018 a brilliant aromatic upper register, while bright acids lend a palpable sense of energy. Readers will find a focused, ethereal red with striking translucence that shares some similarities with wines such as Carema that have a similar alpine character.
    92 points
    Antonio Galloni - Vinous

    First vintage of a varietal Poulsard was in 2015, from the vineyards they had taken over from Jacques Puffeney in Arbois and in Montigny-lès-Arsures. Vines 25–60 years old on marly and sometimes sandy limestone soils. Fully destemmed. No punchdowns. Stored in a large foudre until bottling. This variety – pale and thin-skinned with a short harvest window – is always very pale even after two weeks’ maceration but they aren’t after more colour.
    Very, very pale, light and almost bricky. Delicate and with a sweetness of Victoria (orange) plum. Has a lovely combination of sweetness and wildness of fruit character. Chalky and still grippy tannins, fresh, bone dry, really long. Tension, freshness and polish, with much more flavour and personality than you would expect with such low alcohol. It is delicate but not especially light bodied. The epitome of tension and energy. High-wire act.
    17.5/20 points
    Julia Hardin MW - jancisrobinson.com