2018 Domaine du Pelican Arbois Pinot Noir
Domaine du Pélican are based in Montigny-les-Arsures near Arbois in the Jura and was started in 2012 by Guillaume d’Angerville of Domaine Marquis d’Angerville in Volnay, Burgundy, and François Duvivier, régisseur at Domaine Marquis d’Angerville. The Domaine farms high quality terroirs located in and around the city of Arbois. The plots are among Jura’s finest, the very best being En Barbi and Grand Curoulet. Terroirs here are a mix of marly clay and gravels with varying exposures from north to south, are even more complex than in Burgundy. Whilst a broadly Burgundian approach is employed to wine-making, there is no doubting the individuality and Jurassien personality of the wines. The d’Angerville approach in the cellar has always been light-touch, one which is toned down even more for Domaine du Pélican, little new oak is used and élévage is shorter, lasting twelve months as opposed to eighteen in Volnay. Tanks and foudres are employed for ageing the reds, 500 litre casks for the Savagnin and traditional Burgundian barriques for the Chardonnay. The whites are both “topped up” as opposed to the more common oxidative Jura method.
The 2018 Arbois Pinot Noir is the first Pinot Guillaume d'Angerville made at Domaine du Pélican. Beautifully lifted in the glass, with effusive aromatics, the 2018 is an absolute delight to taste. Crushed red berries, blood orange, cinnamon and rose petal all grace a Pinot that impresses for its exquisite balance and total class. A whole range of bright, saline notes extends the finish while adding notable vibrancy. I can't wait to see how it ages.
Antonio Galloni - Vinous
This is the first vintage in which they have produced a 100% Pinot, ‘after much hesitation’. The fruit is mostly from their Clos St-Laurent parcel behind the winery, at an elevation of approximately 340–380 m. No stems. The soil is made of fallen rocks (scree) of Bajocian limestone over grey marls and the vines are 10–45 years old. 60% aged in barrel (none new), 40% in tank. Bottled August 2019.
Light cherry red. Delicate, fresh and scented. Hint of orange, even a little floral, as well as cranberry – ie tart fruit not strawberry red fruit though it is somehow both tart and sweet. Silky, fresh and incredibly long. So much life and energy and elegance with delicious sweet-sour cherry on the palate. A wild, exhilarating freshness.
Julia Hardin MW - jancisrobinson.com