2018 Domaine Denis Mortet Marsannay Les Longeroies
A man of the vineyards, Arnaud Mortet is driven to produce perfect Pinot fruit from meticulously tended vineyards. He is without question one of the finest growers of the entire Côte and as great wines are the products of great fruit, it is no coincidence that he is producing some of the finest wines in Burgundy today. There is no doubt that the wines are more refined than those produced while his father was alive, yet they share the same intensity and potential longevity. Arnaud is continuing Denis' dream of producing more refined wines, openly getting closer stylistically to the wines of his uncle, Charles Rousseau, without sacrificing depth and intensity or consistency across the range.
The vineyard name, Les Longeroies, probably comes from the French verb longer which means ‘to border’. This makes sense as Longeroies is on the boundary between Marsannay and the next village of Chenôve. It is a star climat of the AOC and has been earmarked for promotion to Premier Cru. Longeroies faces south, and the two Mortet parcels sit mid-slope. One is 50 years old, and the other was planted with Pinot Fin clones in 1992. The aging consisted of 18 months in oak casks, 25% new and the balance in one- and two-year-old wood. Although the prices are now rising, Marsannay remains one of the last great value appellations of the Côte and this is certainly one of its finest examples.
A deft application of wood sets off very ripe yet fresh aromas of plum and dark currants that are also cut with plenty of earth nuances. The sleek, intense and lightly stony medium weight flavors culminate in a delicious and balanced finish that is at once mildly austere and rustic. Drink 2024+.
Allen Meadows - Burghound
Bursting with aromas of raspberries, cherries, woodsmoke, rich soil and grilled meats, the 2018 Marsannay Les Longeroies is medium to full-bodied, supple and succulent, with fine tannins and a lively, vibrant core of fruit. This represents a fine introduction to the appellation and to the domaine's style.
William Kelley - Wine Advocate (Jan 2020)
The 2018 Marsannay Les Longeroies, matured in 25% new oak, has a well-defined blackberry and raspberry bouquet with veins of blue fruit. The medium-bodied palate offers svelte tannins and fine acidity. Very cohesive, with an elegant finish. Excellent. Drink 2022 - 2032.
Neal Martin - Vinous
Two plots, one 30 year old in pinot fin and a 60 to 70 year old section. Dense rich purple, more stuffing but less immediate bouquet than the Bourgogne. A wealth of fruit, lovely balanced wine with a fine long finish.
Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy