2018 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs
A man of the vineyards, Arnaud Mortet is driven to produce perfect Pinot fruit from meticulously tended vineyards. He is without question one of the finest growers of the entire Côte and as great wines are the products of great fruit, it is no coincidence that he is producing some of the finest wines in Burgundy today. There is no doubt that the wines are more refined than those produced while his father was alive, yet they share the same intensity and potential longevity. Arnaud is continuing Denis' dream of producing more refined wines, openly getting closer stylistically to the wines of his uncle, Charles Rousseau, without sacrificing depth and intensity or consistency across the range.
This is Mortet’s ‘super Gevrey’ and comes from a clutch of five brilliantly placed plots that Denis Mortet deliberately chose for the quality of their terroirs and vines. The vineyards include En Motrot, situated between the church and Château de Gevrey-Chambertin close to Clos Saint-Jacques; Au Vellé, very close-by under Petits Cazetiers; Combe-du-Dessus, situated at the top of the Brochon slope just north-east of Gevrey itself; En Champs directly below Gevrey’s Premier Cru Champeaux where the vines here are over 70 years old; and En Dérée, below En Champs on the Brochon border. Only 30% new barrels were used here and 15% whole berries (hand-destemmed).
Here the wood influence is a bit more evident though it stops short of masking the nuance of the spice and earth-inflected aromas of red currant, dark raspberry and forest floor. The rich, full-bodied and powerful flavors possess good verve and detail, all wrapped in a dusty, youthfully austere and sneaky long finish. This is a quality Gevrey villages. Drink 2026+.
Allen Meadows - Burghound
The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs unwinds in the glass with a deep bouquet of cherries, cassis, orange rind, rich soil tones and smoke. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a promising sense of structural reserve despite its exuberant core of fruit. This is a fine rendition of Mortet's emblematic communal bottling and vindicates his decision to harvest early.
William Kelley - Wine Advocate (Jan 2020)
A blend of 50- to 70-year-old vines from various parcels around Brochon, the 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin "Mes Cinq Terroirs" has a taut, strict bouquet of pixelated red berry fruit laced with crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, superb acidity, a silky-smooth texture and a crystalline finish. Outstanding. Drink 2022 - 2036.
Neal Martin - Vinous
This is now a 30,000 bottle cuvée coming from 5 plots on the Brochon side of the appellation with vines averaging 50 to 60 years old. Impressive dense purple, this has a magical suavity of dark dense fruit with elegance and balance, really classy. I was going to say that Mes Cinq Terroirs was a textbook Gevrey but it is better than that.
Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy