2018 Domaine Denis Mortet Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
A man of the vineyards, Arnaud Mortet is driven to produce perfect Pinot fruit from meticulously tended vineyards. He is without question one of the finest growers of the entire Côte and as great wines are the products of great fruit, it is no coincidence that he is producing some of the finest wines in Burgundy today. There is no doubt that the wines are more refined than those produced while his father was alive, yet they share the same intensity and potential longevity. Arnaud is continuing Denis' dream of producing more refined wines, openly getting closer stylistically to the wines of his uncle, Charles Rousseau, without sacrificing depth and intensity or consistency across the range.
Although Mortet’s 0.32 hectares of vines are located in the lower part of this historic vineyard, they are some of the oldest (more than 60 years) and most fastidiously farmed vines in the entire Clos. The 2018 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru includes 50% hand-destemmed whole berries and was matured in 70% new oak.
Noticeable wood fights a bit with the very earthy mix of upper and lower register aromas that include red currant, raspberry, violet, plum and a whiff of the sauvage. The mid-palate of the larger-scaled flavors is supple and not especially dense though the austere finale tightens up substantially. Like the Lavaut St. Jacques, this needs to add depth over time as it's somewhat one-dimensional today. Drink 2035+.
Allen Meadows - Burghound
The 2018 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is also showing very well, and Mortet speculates that drier, warmer vintages are ameliorating the lower part of this large appellation—where his vines are located. Exhibiting a rich bouquet of plums and wild berries mingled with blood orange, peonies and burning embers, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and enveloping, with good depth at the core but not the slightest structural asperity.
William Kelley - Wine Advocate (Jan 2020)
The 2018 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, which includes 30% whole bunch, has a well-defined, sous-bois and pressed iris bouquet that blossoms with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, a seamless texture and an elegant, wonderfully poised finish. Stunning. Drink 2023 - 2045.
Neal Martin - Vinous
Arnaud tends to pick some village Gevrey on day 1 of the harvest to see how things are going, then does Chambolle and Clos de Vougeot on day 2. One third whole bunch vinification here, and two thirds new wood. Pretty medium deep purple in colour, Arnaud has managed to make a very stylish Clos de Vougeot with some elegance. Ripe purple fruit with a chocolate note behind, balanced and very long.
Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy