2018 Didier Dagueneau Blanc etc…
Pouilly Fumé and Sancerre are the global benchmarks for Sauvignon Blanc, and there is no bigger name or more highly regarded producer in the area than Domaine Didier Dagueneau. Now under the guidance of Didier's talented son Louis-Benjamin, the wines still follow his ethos that authentic Pouilly Fumé requires healthy fruit from low yielding, old vines to produce the purest, most intense and vibrantly fresh wine. That's not to say these wines are typical of the appellation. Given the severely low yields and approach to élevage, Dagueneau wines emphasise a creamy texture rather than bracing acidity, and combine mineral flavours with exotic fruits to supreme effect.
Previously labelled as Blanc Fumé de Pouilly, now reborn as Blanc Etc… and looking better than ever. This is the Domaine's only wine that is not terroir or soil specific, instead produced from the fruit of four vineyards. Two are plots situated away from the Saint-Andelain hill: one a parcel of 15-20 year old vines on flinty-clay soils; the other in the lieu-dit of Les Coques on limestone/marl (white clay) soil. This fruit was blended with young-vine parcels from Le Bois de Saint-Andelain itself. It was fermented in a mix of new and three-four year old barrels and then matured in both wood and tank.
A round, mouth-filling, textured 2018 Blanc etc. offers almond croissant, sweet apple and nectarine flavors. Full in body, the 2018 presents a sense of weight, fine texture, a line of delightful acidity and a lengthy, savory finish. From the Pouilly-Fumé appellation but now labeled as Vin de France, this wine was known as Blanc de Pouilly-Fumé until 2017. It's already drinking well now but has plentiful concentration and structure to continue for the medium term. Drink 2021 - 2027.
Rebecca Gibb MW - Vinous