2017 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese* (375ml)
Selbach-Oster has a history in the wine trade dating back 1660, while the current winery was formed in the mid 1800's. Known for producing highly detailed and pure expressions of Riesling, Selbach-Oster have vines planted in some of the greatest sites in the Mosel, including Zeltinger Himmelreich, Schlossberg, and Sonnenuhr; Wehlener Sonnenuhr; and Graacher Himmelreich and Domprobst. Today, Johannes Selbach and his wife Barbara, with the increasing help of son Sebastian and daughter Hannah, manage their vineyards and winery with passion and respect for the estate’s long held traditions. Johannes, like his late father Hans, has continued the use of traditional oak fuder in his cellar, bringing in new large casks every few years. Vinification is carried out in a combination of fuder and stainless steel, in a hands-off manner with no fining, and predominantly with wild yeasts. The focus is on meticulous work in the vineyard with the aim to produce and bring home perfect fruit.
The 2017 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese * is perfectly concentrated and refined on the nose with its aromas of stewed peach, fine botrytis and even slate. Lush, beautifully fine and finessed on the palate, this is a salty-piquant, fresh and highly delicate Beerenauslese with stimulating salinity and citrus fruit. This is a beauty of great finesse and elegance. Bottled with 6.5% alcohol (in 375-milliliter bottles), it's not sticky or sweet at all but is endlessly salty. A beauty. Tasted in March 2019.
Stephan Reinhardt - Wine Advocate (June 2019)
This “one-star” BA has a “no-star” counterpart which I did not taste. “They were both very good and would have made an outstanding blend,” said Selbach, “but this lot exhibited a tick more finesse,” so he opted for separate bottlings, of which this one constituted 200 liters. White raisin and apple jelly are accompanied on the nose by prickle of lemon peel and radish, then pick up brown spices, honey, hazelnut paste and mango chutney on a viscous yet buoyant palate, leading to a vibrant, superbly multifaceted and ravishingly sustained finish. Drink 2019 - 2060.
David Schildknecht - Vinous
The 2017er Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Beerenauslese * was harvested at a massive 155° Oechsle, i.e. already in TBA territory. It displays an immensely complex nose made of nut paste, raisin, candied grapefruit, mango, smoke, vanilla and bergamot. The wine is superbly aromatic on the palate where it delivers mango, honey, raisin, plum, nut paste, apple jelly and orange jam with remarkable presence and delicacy. The finish proves hugely pure and immensely long. The combination of density and finesse defies all logic. What a great dessert wine in the making! Drink 2027-2067.
Jean Fisch & David Rayer - Mosel Fine Wines