2017 Francois Rousset-Martin Sous-Roche Proffeseur Savagnin
Francois Rousset is producing some of the most captivating wines in the Jura right now. Launching his winery in 2006 in the Chateau Chalon appellation, Francois labels his wines as Cotes du Jura since he makes them in a non-oxidative ouillé or topped-up style. Vinified by parcel, the farming is organic-certified with little to no sulphur and bottled unfined and unfiltered.
The lieu-dit underneath the big rock of Château Chalon is the best known and most prestigious, and it's the source for the 2017 Côtes du Jura Savagnin Cuvée du Professeur Sous Roche. This Savagnin would have the right to be called Château Chalon if it was aged sous voile for six years, but because it matured in topped-up barrels for 14 to 16 months, it's a Côtes du Jura, a choice of Russet-Martin. Yields were catastrophically low in 2017, and there are only 1,500 of this (but there will be some 4,000 in 2018). It's a bit spicy, and I guess it must have had some traces of flor, which give it the Jura character. It matured in oak barrels from Burgundy, and it's faintly oxidative. Cuvée du Professeur makes reference to his father who still owns this vineyard.
Luis Gutiérrez - Wine Advocate (June 2019)