2017 Domaine de la Pepiere Muscadet Sevre et Maine Monnieres Saint Fiacre
While Domaine de la Pépière are quiet achievers, fine wine devotees agree they are one of the greatest estates in the Loire Valley. Their reputation comes from the vibrancy and density of the wines which reflect their terroir of mostly decomposed Granite, Gabbro and Gniess. There are 28 hectares of vines with 8 hectares planted on the granite of Clisson in the more southerly part of the appellation, another 12 hectares further north on the granite of Château Thébaud, both of which contain veins of metamorphic gneiss with amphibolite stones.
Domaine de la Pépière has again (2016 was frosted) produced this superb Cru Communal, in the new appellation Muscadet Monnières-Saint Fiacre from old vines on gneiss terroir with topsoils of sand and gravel, formerly part of the Cuvée Eden and Gras Moutons. Slow two month fermentation followed by 24 months of aging on the lees. A wine that is a bit softer and more aromatic than the stately 2017 Château-Thébaud, the Monnières-Saint Fiacre shows a bit more fruit in the lovely aromas of pear, citrus, herbs and stone. The palate is round and ripe and supple with white fruits and minerals. This is a superb Muscadet to drink over the next ten years, also decant for the best showing.
The 2017 Monnières Saint-Fiacre offers ripe nectarine, apple and citrus alongside lees-derived nutty characters, having spent three years on lees. The clarity of the wine is excellent, perhaps something to do with the hand harvesting and whole bunch pressing, which puts them in the minority. It's light in body and elegant with fine sinew on the finish. Drawing this out on the long finish, it bursts with freshness and reflects the cool vintage. Drink 2022 - 2034.
Rebecca Gibb MW - Vinous