2016 Keller Frauenberg Spatburgunder (Pinot Noir) Grosses Gewachs
Totally cool and elegant on the palate, this is a refined but very youthful pinot noir. The herbal and slightly vegetal notes from the 50 per cent whole-cluster fermentation are still quite pronounced, but the pure, cherry note grows and grows with aeration. Long and delicate finish, where the tannins are already beautifully integrated. Bottled unfiltered. Drink in 2019.
Barrel sample. 17 hl/ha, 50% 2nd-use oak, 50% 3rd use, 30% whole bunch. Vines are French mass selection. All limestone soils. ‘A winner in climate change’, says Keller – when they planted it, you could not ripen red grapes in this vineyard.
Mid cherry red. A little darker than the Bürgel. A little more spice, darker fruit but still red fruit, more intense on the nose, less immediate charm. You can see the stems but they are part of the fabric and not intrusive. A little firmer than the Bürgel but while the tannins are firmer, they are velvety smooth already, al dente. A little bit of oak sweetness but this is meshed with the fruit. There’s an attractive dusty/mineral quality that I associate with limestone. Needs a little longer but should have a really long life.
Julia Harding MW - jancisrobinson.com
The 2016 Frauenberg pinot noir is more black fruity in personality than the Bürgel this year. The wine delivers a refined and vibrant nose of black cherries, raw cocoa, a great base of soil tones, a hint of the beetroot to come and gentle smokiness. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and bouncy, with lovely sappiness at the core, stellar transparency, suave, perfectly integrated tannins and a long, tangy and supremely elegant finish. Tout en finesse.
John Gilman - A View From The Cellar