2015 Savart Le Noues Champagne
Fred Savart is one of the most engaging and energetic vignerons currently in Champagne. Based in the village of Ecueil where most of his holdings are located, Fred also farms a handful of vines across into Villiers-aux-Noeuds, along with most recently accessing plots in Le Mesnil and Oger. His wines are largely based on Pinot Noir, with a smaller amount of Chardonnay, and while initially there was a focus on fermentation in stainless steel, more increasingly his wines are raised in barriques and demi-muids. Each of his wines are born out of inspiration and intuition rather than any sort of set formula, and are routinely some of the best expressions of terroir viewed through the vagaries of vintage.
Le Noues is a new line composed of 100% Pinot Noir from some of the best plots that previously would make it into his L'Ouverture bottling. Fermentation occurs in demi-muid before ageing on less for three years.
Due to be disgorged four weeks after my visit was the 2015 Extra Brut Premier Cru Les Noues, a new bottling from a parcel of Pinot Noir vines that used to go into Savart's l'Ouverture cuvée. Unwinding in the glass with a complex bouquet that mingles waxy citrus rind, red apples, berries and blanched almonds with hints of oyster shell and crushed chalk, it's medium to full-bodied and ample but incisive, with excellent depth at the core, a lovely spice of acidity and a long, precise finish.
William Kelley - Wine Advocate (Aug 2019)