2015 Dr Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Grosses Gewachs Reserve
Super elegant and refined with great herbal delicacy, this is as graceful as dry Mosel riesling gets. Buy it also has deep slate foundations that give it imposing presence. I love the laser-beam, straight finish that shoots out in the direction of infinity. Drink or hold.
Sea breeze, wet stone and moss intriguingly greet the nose, joined by site-typical hints of vanilla and apple. The polished, subtly creamy palate features animatingly youthful, juicy apple and lime, and the lingering finish is admirably transparent to myriad nuances of a mineral, mossy and lichen-like sort. This wine’s combination of sensual allure with head-scratching intrigue delectably substantiates Loosen’s notion that his Grosses Gewächs could be improved upon by delaying the bottling of selected fuders for a second year or longer. And my intuition, like his, is that this approach should also conduce to longer bottle life, a contention that recent re-tasting of the vintage 2012 Reserves seems to support. Drink 2020 - 2030.
David Schildknecht - Vinous