2015 Dr Loosen Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Grosses Gewachs Reserve
This dry Mosel makes a bold statement with tons of spice, beautifully interwoven with the serious concentration, rolling over you in one huge wave that washes you up on a rocky, volcanic shore. In spite of all that, there’s great subtlety at the breathtaking finish. Drink or hold.
Framboise and strawberry distillates, lime peel and wet stone inform an ethereal nose. There is some of the same delightfully invigorating impression of fresh, seedy red berries as in the as-yet unbottled “regular” 2018 Grosses Gewächs, a further demonstration that extended time in cask (this spent two years there) need by no means sap Loosen Grosse Gewächse of primary juiciness, animation or invigoration. In fact, the energy that this bottling projects is quite tightly wound. Alkaline, saline and kelp-like notes serve for intrigue and saliva-inducement on a tongue-tingling finish. The mineral and marine elements here are perceived more as a suffusion, and there is, for now at least, not the sense of transparency projected by the corresponding Wehlener Sonnenuhr. Drink 2020 - 2028.
David Schildknecht - Vinous