- Nick's Import
2012 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Extra Brut Champagne
Philipponnat's Clos des Goisses vineyard is one of the most famous in all of Champagne, and having been purchased by the Philipponnat family in 1935 it immediately became its crown jewel. The name is taken from the local dialect “Gois” meaning very steep, and the vineyard is the steepest, directly south-facing site in the whole of Champagne with a gradient between 30-45%. Pinot Noir dominates the cuvee with the typical blend two-thirds Pinot and one-third Chardonnay, granting Clos des Goisses with power, structure, and exceptional longevity. Work is done almost entirely by hand, and no insecticides or synthetic herbicides are used in the vineyard.
Disgorged in April 2021 with the usual 4.5 grams per liter dosage, Philipponnat's 2012 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses offers up generous aromas of pear, pomelo and peach mingled with hints of honeycomb, macadamia nut and fresh bread. Full-bodied, broad and vinous, it's fleshy and textural, with a strikingly concentrated core of fruit, compelling mid-palate plenitude, bright acids and a pillowy pinpoint mousse. Demonstrative, even dramatic, its youthful generosity is deceptive, as it's only with some bottle age that real complexity will emerge. Drink 2025 - 2045.
William Kelley - Wine Advocate (Feb 2022)
The 2012 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is a Champagne of extraordinary elegance and finesse. Silky and aromatic, the 2012 impresses with its mid-weight, refined personality. Hints of kirsch, red plum, flowers and chamomile open gently in the glass. Clos des Goisses is often a rich, vinous Champagne, but the 2012 comes across as restrained and understated in all the right ways. Its aging potential will be measured in decades not years. Sadly, severe spring frost took with it a startling 50% of the crop. According to Charles Philipponnat Pinot fared better than Chardonnay. Ultimately, though, the Goisses blend is a typical two-thirds Pinot and one-third Chardonnay. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter. Drink 2024 - 2047.
Antonio Galloni - Vinous
Aromas of bread dough, mandarin, strawberry, raspberry and light dry earth follow through to a full body with lightly candied fruit, phenolic tension and a clear, bright finish. Mineral. Pure. Dry and layered at the end with a note of chalk. No malo. 61% pinot noir and 39% chardonnay. Drink now.
A wonderful nose blending a wonderful combination of fruit and sweet patisserie elements - lemon, apple, grapefruit and pear with buttery biscuit and roasted hazelnut notes. The palate is strikingly bright filled with textured, lively and persistent bubbles underpinned by balanced acidity and depth of flavour overall. A really well-constructed Champagne from the acclaimed 2012 vintage giving body, weight, precision and drive with a long length. Each sip is so satisfying. Disgorged in April 2021 after eight years on the lees, 60% aged in Burgundy barrels and 40% in stainless steel. A dosage of 4.5g/l which is the same for every Clos des Goisses. This, alongside with the 1996 vintage are new to the Place de Bordeaux this year with Philipponnat the first Champagne house to use the distribution network. Drinking Window 2021 - 2035.
Georgina Hindle - Decanter