2012 Greenock Creek Roennfeldt Road Cabernet Sauvignon

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In this its infancy, this is a two-level piece of architecture, probably on wheels. If you're on the street level and you're on the paleo diet you'll think the nightshades are contentious or verboten so you can steer away from this smug baby from the start: it's full of bits of tomato, eggplant, plumcake tobacco and peppers. In here they're toasty and roasted with some very racy French oak. But not for paleo people. Aren't they still making their waddies from Yew? Out the back of that freshly-painted, baked-and-peeled capsicum family of aromas it's acrid and sharp, like hemp. Burlap sacks in summer. Take a good schlück and all that is given flesh of the most delicate yet intense crème de cassis form. This is an amazing rarity, a Cabernet of this lissom build with such compressed intensity. It will take years to convince some that this is indeed a wine of royal elegance as much as provenance. By which time it will be well beyond their reach. They can wait at the bus stop with the paleos. Bye-bye! Oh yes. Forgot to take you upstairs. The top floor is open to the sky and it's all prickly summer backroad, from everlasting flowers through lavendar to wormwood, and then the sorts of tiny, beautifully aromatic shavings of nature somebody like Guerlain would work into a perfume. Violets. Ylang ylang. Black lilies. Perfection.
Phillip White – Greenock Creek Newsletter