2004 Masam SRL Clynelish 15 Year Old Cask Strength Single Malt Scotch Whisky (700ml)

The name behind Masam SRL is, arguably, the foremost in independent whisky bottling. The late Silvano was the first bottler of Scotch whisky outside the UK, beginning in 1968. To this day, some of the most famous and collectable whiskies in the world bear his name. For legal reasons, we can no longer use Silvano's surname in any context related to the Masam SRL spirits as the patent for the title "S______i" has been sold. Despite this glaring omission, those in the know will instantly make the connection as well as recognise the distinctive vessel shape used for many of his finest bottlings. After leaving his former company in 2008, Silvano still wanted to exercise his passion, releasing Masam SRL in 2016. Sadly, Silvano passed away in February 2017. Today his wife, Maryse continues to bottle spirits under the Masam SRL label (a combination of their names). The company will cease when Silvano’s selections are exhausted making these some of the world’s most desirable independent bottlings.

Cask No. 800100 is a case in point: A potent, young and tasty middle aged Clynelish that you'll want to give several minutes breathing to gather steam. It starts with aromas of shortbread, beeswax and pineapple pudding countered by hints of green wood and pickled ginger, but gains a fruity aspect akin to waxy green apples, semi ripe pear and dried mango, wavering, then losing definition before turning full circle. For what is typically a fairly elegant distillate, this is a relatively full bodied and mouth filling expression, baring some of the characteristics of Diageo's (roughly) equivalent release from 2015; There's a subtle grassy / smokiness to the honeyed, waxy fruit. It's less succulent and more aperitif like. And while there are some classic distillery notes to enjoy here, they're tempered by a coastal edge that could be mistaken for a very good Inchgower, especially at the finish which turns vibrant and warming with white pepper and gentle salinity. 292 bottles are on offer for Clynelish hunters globally, selected by Silvano himself. 54.6% Alc./Vol. Non chill filtered. Collectable.

Notes from the importers... Nose: Yoghurt Candies, nasturtiums, mango skins, lemonade, shortbread tins, green mango, iceberg lettuce. Palate: Pine needles, tinned fruit, ash rind cheese. Finish: Ash rind cheese lingers.