1997 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses L.V. Extra Brut Champagne

Philipponnat's Clos des Goisses vineyard is one of the most famous in all of Champagne, and having been purchased by the Philipponnat family in 1935 it immediately became its crown jewel. The name is taken from the local dialect “Gois” meaning very steep, and the vineyard is the steepest, directly south-facing site in the whole of Champagne with a gradient between 30-45%. Pinot Noir dominates the cuvee with the typical blend two-thirds Pinot and one-third Chardonnay, granting Clos des Goisses with power, structure, and exceptional longevity. Work is done almost entirely by hand, and no insecticides or synthetic herbicides are used in the vineyard.

The L.V. (Long Vieillissement / long ageing) release of Clos des Goisses is the rarest bottling to come from the vineyard in which only a few hundred bottles are ever released. Philipponnat's most recent L.V. comes from the stunning 1997 vintage, it's a blend of 66% Pinot Noir and 34% Chardonnay and was disgorged 25 years after harvest in 2022 bottled with a very low 4.5 g/L dosage.

Other Reviews....
The 1997 Extra Brut Clos des Goisses L.V. is a stunning Champagne, with aromas of coffee beans, vanilla, honeycomb, pastry, ripe orchard fruits and a touch of menthol. Full-bodied, layered and textural, it’s perfectly balanced with an enveloping core of fruit and a delicate mousse. It concludes with an elegantly vinous profile and a long, sapid finish. Although already thoroughly enjoyable, it should age well over the next five to 10 years. Drink 2023 - 2035.
96 points
Yohan Castaing - Wine Advocate (Nov 17, 2023)

25 years after vintage, disgorged at the same time as the (not dissimilar in spirit) 2013, and at this point you can expect a slight softening in the pressure of the mousse, and a whole heap of extra truffle, creme patisserie, brioche and wax flavours. After so long on the lees, you might also get a touch of marmite reduction at first, so I would give it a short carafe before drinking - basically just decant for 5 minutes and then straight out into your glass. As it opens, you get waves of aromatic herbs, angelica-liqourice, touch of honeysuckle, frangipane, soot, cold ash, grilled almond, even rancio oxidative notes on the finish. An October harvest which is extremely late for Champagne, this has decades ahead of it. Today's winemaker Thierry Garnier was already there, but chef de cave was Norbert Thiebert.
97 points
Jane Anson