1990 LMDW Artist #9 Bruichladdich 25 Year Old Cask Strength Single Malt Scotch Whisky (700ml)

Part of an ongoing series of 'themed' releases, presented with art labels commissioned by a prominent French retailer, now up to the 9th instalment. This well-aged Bunnah' was distilled in 1990 and bottled in 2019 from a single refill sherry butt (cask #167) as a limited edition of 483 bottles, so it's actually older than what's stated. Bruichladdich’s barley is sourced solely from Scotland, and 33% of it is grown on Islay itself. Since reopening in 2001, the distillery has produced three very different single malts: unpeated Bruichladdich (60% of production), peated Port Charlotte (30% of production) and Octomore, the peatiest single malt in Scotland (10% of production). This version was distilled two years before the distillery’s temporary closure. Its marine, medicinal and earthy character proudly proclaims its island roots. With its abundant and very complex fruit, it also eloquently evokes the world of Irish whiskeys and single pot stills. 55% Alc./Vol. Non chill filtered. European exclusive.

Other reviews... Actually 28 but as usual, they rounded it down. What we call doing 'coquetteries' in French. Colour: full gold. Nose: right on an apricot pie from this morning and with good barleyness, mirabelles, acacia honey and some slightly earthy earl grey, plus whiffs of bananas flambéed. All check. This baby's said to be 'peaty' but just between us, I'm not finding any peat this far. Could be me, having said that, or some mismatch somewhere. With water: more in the style of the 1990, with yellow flowers, more acacia honey, ripe mirabelles, and even mirabelle eau-de-vie. Mouth (neat): firm, tightened, rather on even more mirabelles, peaches, and with unexpected notes of cognac. Cannot be bad. With water: wee touches of oak coming out, chamomile tea, ideas of sandalwood, echoes of incense… I would recommend a very moderate use of your preferred pipette here. Finish: medium, even more floral, with peel and more herbal teas. Comments: it's not impossible that water shouldn't even be added at all. Great, great drop when naked. 88 points - whiskyfun.com

Notes from the bottlers... The complex first nose reveals heady florals (mimosa), beeswax, clove, fleur de sel and candied citrus fruit... Allowed to breathe, it develops autumnal tones (moss, dark chocolate). Exotic fruit (mango, passion fruit, pineapple) then precedes a refined medicinal peat. The concentrated attack is earthy, liquorice and salty. On the mid-palate, ripe fruits (apricot) bring the palette towards a more jammy register (Mirabelle plum). The well-balanced finish is characterized by incense, leather, spices and salted butter caramel. New fruits further develop the fruity register of this Bruichladdich (gooseberry, blueberry, orange).