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Michel Couvreur Candid Malt Whisky (700ml)
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- ABV 49%
Burgundy is a place full of personalities at the high end of the passion scale, especially when it comes to food and drink - perhaps none more so than a Belgian who is presently maturing Scotch Whisky in the heart of the famous French wine region. The fellow in question is Michel Couvreur, and he's a man on a mission when it comes to Scotch Whisky.Entering from the wine trade, his is an increasingly familiar story within the whisky industry. He'd already established a business in the early 1950s in Scotland selling Burgundy wines when in 1978, French friends suggested that he add a top quality Scotch to his portfolio. So began Couvreur’s interest in the whisky industry from which he developed his ultra-traditionalist perspective on oak. He maintains (more radically than others in the industry) that 90% of a whisky’s quality comes from the cask, and only 10% of the quality comes from the distillation process. In the 1970s, American bourbon casks gradually replaced port and sherry casks for the maturation of Scotch whisky, a great tragedy, according to Couvreur, as it changed the essence of a product that had European barrels at its core. In a personal crusade, Couvreur settled in Bouze-les-Beaune (close to the Burgundian town of Beaune, France), where he opened a customs bonded cellar and began selecting his own sherry casks (Pedro Ximenez and Palomino) from the Andalusia region of Spain. Some readers will be aware, since the 1970's, sherry ceased to be shipped to UK in wood. Whisky producers have now to go and select their casks at sherry bodegas, paying a premium on top of transport costs. It's partly for this reason that Michel Couvreur's cellar is located in Burgundy, half-way between Scotland and Andalusia, with straight motorways from Jerez de la Frontera to Beaune. Courveur's "Scotch" starts out in Scotland as bulk a.k.a.“clearach” (a high proof distillate) which is transferred to his humid cellar in Bouze-les-Beaune to be aged in small sherry casks that have been impregnated with 25 years aging via traditional soleras. All required dilutions are accomplished with bottled water from Scotland. Total production is about 50,000 bottles or 4,000 cases annually. A small selection of these artisan matured spirits has just arrived in Australia. Tasting note:Candid is from malt distilled in 2006 and matured in x-Pedro Ximenez botas (250 liters). Four casks were blended. The deep polished copper colour appears slightly turbid in the glass. The aroma is promising with its initially sweet, vanilla / caramel opening. Prickles the nose on the second pass which is redolent of Christmas pudding. Delicately bitter sweet, a flourish of spices covers the tongue; some very attractive, almost juicy fruit cake-like moments here too, sustained into the warm, drying fade. Good length. 49% Alc./Vol.