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2012 Domaine Maby Nessun Dorma
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- Cellar 4 - 5 years (2020-2021)
- ABV 15%
- Closure: Cork
The appellation of Lirac is just across from Chateauneuf du Pape on the right bank of the Rhone. Not surprisingly, it shares many features of its prestigious neighbour, such as weather patterns and geology, with the added benefit of a few of its own variances and nuances. While the vignerons of Chateauneuf excel in their use of powerful Grenache, their Lirac counterparts apply themselves to crafting structured, refined and elegant reds, as well as powerful Roses that can rival those of Bandol. This subtle shift in style is only possible by using the diversity of terroirs and varietals at their disposal, with the same quartz rocks found in Chateauneuf but also slopes covered with eroded limestone from the surrounding cliffs. Far from being the poor cousin to Chateauneuf, Lirac wines stand with their own individuality, and there is even a sense of rivalry between the appellations, with Lirac showing great pride in attracting more and more vignerons from Chateauneuf, aiming to produce different expressions of the Rhone varietals. If the wines of Lirac seem esoteric, it is in part due to the small size of the vineyard area as well as its relative 'seclusion' away from the main roads leading to the South of France.
Our continuing relationship with the Rhone's top viticultural consultant, Philippe Cambie, allows us to introduce his projects on a regular basis, as he takes on new consultancies with off the ground projects or even with well established Domaines, as is the case with Domaine Maby. Considered as one of the "locomotives" in Lirac , Domaine Maby has for long been at the forefront of modernisation in both the cellar and vineyards and are always pursuing new paths to further refine their style. We have narrowed their selection to two wines that we thought would best represent the region, the remarkable "Nessun Dorma" red the alluring "La Fermade" Rose. Their varietal compositions are a little different than what we are used to. We trust you'll find them as novel and appealing as we did. They represent another terrific discovery from the Rhone's vast patchwork of terroirs.
A Southern Rhone blend of Grenache and Syrah. Totally opaque black red colour with a bright dark crimson red hue. Aromas of liquorice and ripe black cherries intermixed with black raspberries are followed by subtle scorched earth notes, dried meats and a hint of pepper. Rich and concentrated to the point of almost being liqueur like, mouthfilling flavours of black raspberries, liquorice and black cherries flood the palate over some light scorched earth, subtle incense infusions and spice. Lush textural feel with a slightly chewy finish and solid but quite fine grained tannins. Excellent power finishing long with ripe black raspberries, liquorice, black cherries, incense infusions, subtle earth and spice.
Drink over the next 4-5 years.
Even better, and the top wine in the lineup, the 2012 Lirac Nessun Dorma checks in as a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah, all from pebbly soils, that was aged in stainless steel (Grenache) and 1-year-old barrels (Syrah). Exhibiting impressive notes of black cherry liqueur, plum, black licorice, violets and crushed rock, it’s medium to full-bodied, supple, textured and ready to go on the palate. As with the La Fermade, it’s made in a forward, delicious style and should be consumed over the coming 3-5 years.
Jeb Dunnuck - eRobertParker.com #216 (Part 2) Jan 2015