Never Never Distilling Co. Juniper Freak Gin (500ml)

[2019 bottling] Made from juniper berries air-freighted from North Macedonia to Adelaide. Other gins come close, but the Freak beats them all when it comes to sheer purity, concentration and flavour definition. Juniper and lemon sorbet plus a touch of cool mint are dialled up to near impossible intensity while the finish fuses fresh pine buds with crushed peppercorns. Brilliantly balanced at Navy Strength, the aftertaste is sustained, deep and invigorating. Just like last years, outrageously good. One of the world's great gins. 58% Alc./Vol.

Other reviews... Distilled to showcase the annual variations in Macedonian juniper, Juniper Freak utilises juniper from the previous year's harvest. Sourcing fresher juniper and using such concentration, at a higher alcohol content, allows the oils from the juniper to present themselves. This gin is not for the faint-hearted; it’s powerfully robust and has an intensity of concentration unlike most gins. The nose presents with steely, freshly crushed pine needles, and this is where the use of fresher juniper comes in; there's crisper pine and a green apple-like sharpness. The palate is then where the oils come into play, sappy pine wood resembles rich, decadent honey with a rich undertone of warmed juniper. After descending into the depths of juniper oil, the spirit finishes but dries out a little, offering some nuance to the more subtle juniper profile. This year's vintage presents a little dusky rose oil at the end. 95 points - Jess Clayfield, James Halliday's Australian Wine Companion