2018 Conterno Nervi Gattinara Vigna Molsino

The Nervi estate is the oldest in the DOCG of Gattinara, north of Piedmont, founded in 1906 by original owner Luigi Nervi. A long time admirer of the wines and friends of the owners at the time, Roberto Conterno (of Giacomo Conterno fame) purchased a 90% stake in the winery in 2018, renaming it Conterno Nervi. A relatively new designation, Gattinara became a DOCG in 1990, and while the wines show similarities to those of Piedmont, generally Gattinara reds have a more elevated feel, savoury and structured, with plenty of acidity and fine tannins allowing for great longevity.

Located on the western border of the DOCG, sitting up at 420 metres, Molsino is the largest of the vineyards and faces mostly in a classic south-west exposure. It has a natural amphitheatre shape, which helps retain plenty of perfect Nebbiolo ripening warmth – required at these cooler areas. Fermentation and maceration is exactly the same as for the ‘Valferana’ but the ‘Molsino’, though tightly wound on release (perhaps even more than ‘Valferana’), opens up and can be lush by comparison, still underpinned by evident structure and tang, but more generous with cherry, plum and balsamic (local bush sage) over and above.

Other Reviews....
With vines planted in 1992 in a cozy and protected position within the folds of hills above Gattinara at 400 meters in elevation, the Molsino vineyard is known to produce extra fruit weight, concentration and power. This is definitely the case with the Conterno Nervi 2018 Gattinara Vigna Molsino. Of the two single-vineyard wines made at this estate (the other being the Vigna Valferana), I'm giving the aging edge to this bottle and have extended the drinking window as a result. During my tasting with Roberto Conterno, he described this wine as having "broader shoulders" and "more bite to the mouthfeel." Those are exact descriptions, and I would add that Molsino shows special dimension, in terms of both width and depth, with red and purple fruits that spread evenly over the palate. The wine's finish is powered by tarry smoke and campfire ash that add vertical lift and length. Drink 2024 - 2045.
96 points
Monica Larner - Wine Advocate (Dec 2021)

The 2018 Gattinara Molsino emerges from a relatively warm, sunny spot on the estate at 400 meters in elevation. It presents myriad shades of dark cherry/plum fruit, sage, menthol, new leather and dark spices. Potent and virile in the glass, the Molsino possesses tremendous drive as it builds into a deep, beautifully resonant finish that is utterly captivating. It's a remarkable effort for the first year in which Roberto Conterno and his team were in charge. The ambition is pretty clear. Molsino will soon be the Monfortino of Alto Piemonte. Drink 2028-2048.
98+ points
Antonio Galloni - Vinous

2018 is the first vintage completely handled by Roberto Conterno at Nervi winery following the acquisition of the estate. It's also the first vintage with his son Gabriele and the first to feature the new label. It will be released this October. The vintage was fresh after the dry 2017 and 2016 vintages, 'better than in Langhe,' said Roberto Conterno, 'but we did a severe green harvest, cutting 50 to 60% of the clusters.' Molsino vineyard at 400 metres is windy and sunny. Bright ruby in the glass, this preview is restrained, with citrus, rose bud, watermelon and tar aromas followed by darker fruit flavours such as dried cherry. A full-bodied and tight-knit structure between fruit and crisp acidity is supported by the broad, dense palate, with firm yet ripe, crunchy tannins on the finish. Overall it's marked by an amazing long, savoury character. Drink 2022 - 2045.
95 points
Aldo Fiordelli - Decanter