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2015 Marquis d'Angerville Volnay Champans Premier Cru
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- ABV 13.5%
- Closure: Cork
This is the first wine to exhibit enough oak to warrant mentioning though it's not so much to dominate the spicy and earth black cherry liqueur-like aromas. The sleek middle weight plus flavors are given shape by the fine but dense tannins that carry over to the impressively persistent finish that is exquisitely well-balanced. This is an exercise in harmony and grace that should be approachable after 6 to 8 years if desired.
Allen Meadows - Burghound
Saturated ruby. Youthfully imploded aromas and flavors of blackberry, cassis and licorice show no roasted character ("the color of the wine is the only thing that gives away the vintage," noted Guillaume d'Angerville). More pliant than the 2016 but with a magical sugar/acid equilibrium and a complicating element of savory minerality. This insidiously palate-saturating wine finishes with outstanding slatey persistence and grip. I would imagine that this will be long-lived but will it ever really shut down in the bottle? It's hard to imagine that this fruit was harvested on September 4.
Stephen Tanzer - Vinous
The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Champans is superb, wafting from the glass with notes of cassis, red cherry, raspberry and candied peel that is still very fruit driven, savory nuances only emerging with extended aeration. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, powerful and muscular, with an authoritative chassis of fine-grained but firm tannins and a deep core of crunchy fruit. This is shutting down, but it's full of promise for the future.
William Kelley - Wine Advocate #236 (Apr 2018)