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2005 Domaine de la Vougeraie Vougeot Les Cras
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- ABV 13%
- Closure: Cork
Producer note: As reported in Issue 21, Pascal Marchand, who made the Vougeraie '05s, has now departed and has several new projects, the wines from which will be reviewed in future Issues. The new de la Vougeraie team consists of winemaker Pierre Vincent (formerly of Maison Jaffelin), vineyardist Nicolas Jacob and directrice of sales Sylvie Poillot. I also had a long conversation with Jean-Charles Boisset, whose idea it was to found Domaine de la Vougeraie by combining the vineyards from four frankly underperforming domaines to create the current 37 ha operation bristling with great vineyards, including six grands crus. Boisset confirmed to me that the conversion from traditional farming to full biodynamic practices for all the 1ers and grands crus initially instituted under Marchand's watch will continue unabated and may include some villages vineyards as well over time. In fact the domaine will apparently become 'bio certified' sometime in 2007. And in another change, Vincent confirmed that the percentage of new wood, especially for the whites, will be slowly reduced. The belief is that they can obtain better transparency and precision in the wines and while I have always admired what Marchand accomplished with his reds, I have also always felt that his whites would be better with less overt oak treatment. 2006 will be the first vintage for the new team entirely on its own and I'll bring you those impressions next year.
Tasting note: This is more expressive than it usually is at this early stage with attractively spiced aromas of plum, earth and a certain sauvage character that continues onto the mouth coating, robust and well muscled flavors that possess well-integrated if not invisible tannins on the delicious, powerful and quite serious finish that offer outstanding length. This is not an elegant wine but it's not rustic either and it's worth a look if you enjoy punchy, balanced and complex no-nonsense burgs.
Score: 90-92 Drink: 2013+
Allen Meadows - Burghound
Tasted: Jan 01, 2007