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2003 Domaine de la Pousse d'Or Corton Clos Du Roi
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- ABV 13%
- Closure: Cork
Producer note: Patrick Landanger is of the view that 2003 'isn't classic but isn't without plenty of appeal despite this. We began picking on August 25th and brought in an average of 14 hl/ha. The crop was already small and then to see the triage losses add to it was tough but I told our team to be ruthless and to discard anything and everything that wasn't perfect. Sugars were high at between 13 and 14.5% and the average was probably 14%. The skins were very thick and there wasn't much juice so for a 20 day cuvaison we did exactly one punch down and no pump overs. The extraction happened fast as the musts were black within one day. I elected to acidify but only in must, not in wine. The malos were also over quickly but we didn't rack as I wanted the wines to remain in contact with their lees as long as possible.' The wines were racked in October and bottled in December. And while the Pousse d'Or '03s won't make anyone forget their '02s, this is an excellent set of wines, particularly the Jarolières and the Clos de Tavannes. Landanger also told me that he bought a .17 ha parcel of the superb 1er Puligny 'Caillerets' at a price of ?100,000 per ouvrée, which works out to approximately $2.4 million per hectare, or roughly $1 million/acre.
Tasting note: Despite the power of the Bressandes, the Clos du Roi is bigger and more powerful still with plum, cassis and prune notes that introduce incredible dense and thick, mouth coating flavors blessed with an impressive amount of sap if not elegance. This is a more masculine effort that is very ripe but not enough to lose its sense of balance.
Score: 90 Drink: 2013+
Allen Meadows - Burghound
Tasted: Apr 01, 2005