1998 Douglas Laing & Co. Old Particular Single Cask Tamdhu 18 Year Old Cask Strength Single Malt Scotch Whisky (700ml)

The all-natural state of this whisky really raises the bar for Tamdhu.

With few official releases from Tamdhu making it to the Australian market over the last decade, we were keen to see what the independents had to offer. This one harks from well before the 2012 takeover by Ian Macleod, who've since invigorated the operation after several years of closure. Non chill filtered, it was distilled in 1998 and bottled in 2016 at high ABV after maturation in a refill hogshead.

Tasting note: [From a 20ml sample] The all-natural state of this whisky really raises the bar for Tamdhu. Pale amber gold. Grainy and peppery at first, then superbly honeyed, with delicate sweet apple fruitiness to the nose. Slightly astringent on entry, then turns full, soft and sweet with a rush of vanilla, cream and crisp grains. This spices up again at the finish, rounding off with unexpected ryvita biscuit-like flavours and a subtle mintiness refreshing the aftertaste. Distinctive and engaging malt that also boasts impressive length. 48.4% Alc./Vol. 248 bottles.

Tamdhu was created in 1896-97 by a blenders group, but two years later became part of Highland Distillers & Co. It remains one of about a dozen distilleries that were built in response to the Whisky Boom of the late nineteenth century that have actually survived. The distillery was closed from 1911 to 1913, then from 1927 till 1948 during which time it was used as a warehouse by Glenrothes. Tamdhu’s production capacity was doubled in 1972 and in 1975 the number of stills grew to six. The major part of the production has been used in the blends Famous Grouse, J&B and Cutty Sark. When Ian MacLeod (who years earlier revamped the Glengoyne distillery) took over, resuming operations in 2012, the Tamdhu whiskies made a welcome return with revamped packaging and high quality output to match. The 10 year old is a perfect example - a quintessential Speysider for a reasonable price. Well worth seeking out.