1991 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon

"ONE OF MARGARET RIVER'S GREATEST CABERNETS."1991 was an exceptional year in Margaret River - with worldclass wines being made by all the major players - Vasse Felix,Cullens, Moss Wood and Cape Mentelle. Leeuwin Estate always holdtheir wine back and the 1991 Cabernet has just been released.The wine press are lavishing praise, "This may well be the bestLeeuwin Cabernet ever released." The problem with such hype isthat it creates expectations that may not be achievable. In factthe whole Leeuwin concept is about mind altering expectations.The deliberate parallel that has been created by the "ArtSeries" with Chateau Mouton Rothschild and the purchase of greatworks of Australian art and their powerful imagery of theAustralian aura create expectations that could easily bring alesser winemaker undone. Are the PR guys over the top or is thisone of the worlds great drinking experiences?IF YOU SAY YOU'RE THE BEST - YOU'RE EITHER THE BEST OR A MASTEROF DELUSION.The 1991 Leeuwin Estate Cabernet is one of the worlds greatwines and sits well alongside the memory of such great bottlesas 1982 Mouton Rothschild, 1982 Cos d' Estournel, 1978 Margaux,1961 Latour and the like. The ultimate joy is the modest price.It is totally undervalued by Australian and world standards. If Grange is worth $350, then Leeuwin Estate is its equal and more.We have to say, we first approached this wine with caution, lestwe fell under the seductive spell of its imagery and read intoit more than there was to read. The wine is one of the greatwines of the world. Deep brick red colour with dark plum / mauveedges. The nose is magnificent and indicates immediately andwithout reservation the illusive quality that English MW'S call"breed". Breed is the result of perfection of viticulture anduncompromising standards of winemaking - Bob Cartwright has gotit right. The nose displays massive ripe fruit and smoky aromas,plums, blackcurrants, cedar and a hint of earthy truffles. Thepalate is as sophisticated as the nose suggests - rich generousharmonies are played out, filling the entire palate. Superbconcentrated fruit. Blackcurrants, ripe plums, smoky cedar, darkchocolates and liquorice, a wonderful orchestra of the palate -dynamic, energetic with its very fine tannin finish. A livingmasterpiece.