Laherte Freres Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature Champagne
100% Chardonnay Champagne from the Laherte family's chalkiest soils in Chavot and Épernay. These vineyards are all biodynamically farmed and are not only rich in chalk and chalky clay (marl) but there is also flint and schist. It has been aged for just over two years in bottle following a first fermentation in barrique, foudre and tronconique cask. No dosage. A creamy white mousse sits gracefully above a pale straw coloured base that’s finely threaded by a very persistent bead. Pronounced pear and citrus aromas stand out from the glass with baked bread and yeast lees characters then taking over. Finishes off with some lightly honeyed toast notes. Sculptured mouthfeel with energetic acidity racing through the elegant yeast lees, toast and citrus flavours. Some light brioche and almond nuances are also evident. Finishes bone dry, tense and crisp with a refined citrus, oily toast, yeast lees and chalk tinged aftertaste.
Drink over the next 5-6 years.
The NV Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs marries power with energy to a degree I have not seen before here. In this edition, the Brut Nature is decidedly powerful and broad, with less of the tension seen in some previous releases. It's as if all the Chardonnay flavors have been turned up to the maximum. Orange peel, apricot, chamomile and spice are some of the many notes that fill out the layers. The current release is based on 2017, with reserve wines from 2016 and 2015, all done in neutral oak. Zero dosage. Disgorged: February, 2020. Drink 2020 - 2026.
Antonio Galloni - Vinous (November 2020)