2024 Keller Von der Fels Riesling

It is difficult to overstate just how central Weingut Keller has become to the modern understanding of dry Riesling. Since Klaus-Peter Keller took over from his father in 2001, the estate has set a global benchmark for precision and expression, joined in recent years by his son Felix, who now plays an increasingly active role in both the vineyards and cellar. Together with Julia Keller, they continue to refine a style that balances crystalline purity with textural depth, producing some of the most sought-after wines in Germany and beyond.

Much of this quality stems from remarkable raw material. The estate farms some of the Rheinhessen's greatest sites: Morstein, Abtserde, Kirchspiel and Hubacker, with most vines now well over 30 years old, and many far older. Yields rarely exceed 35 hl/ha, harvest is deliberately late, and meticulous hand selection allows for long skin contact before gentle pressing. Fermentation takes place in a mix of old oak and stainless steel, always with an eye toward transparency and finesse rather than weight.

While more than 85 percent of Keller's holdings lie within Grosse Lage (Grand Cru) vineyards, only a small proportion is bottled under those designations. The estate's calling card, Riesling von der Fels, has taken on a greater role in recent years, both in scale and in significance. Initially conceived as a cuvée of young-vine fruit from top sites, it now incorporates a growing proportion of mature vines producing fruit of genuine GG quality. The result is a dry Riesling that captures the essence of the Keller style with remarkable clarity and precision.

Other Reviews....
The 2024 Riesling von der Fels, made with 50% grapes from Kirchspiel and the other 50% from Frauenberg, Hubacker, Abtserde and Morstein, was vinified in stainless steel and 600- to 2,400-liter oak vats. The wine displays bright, elegant, fresh and delicately spicy fruit with citrus and salty notes. Lean, elegant and juicy on the palate, with plenty of salt, a firm structure and lively citrus notes, this is an almost light, aromatic and very drinkable dry Riesling from shell limestone and limestone soils. It has a savory finish. 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in August 2025. Drink 2028-2045.
93 points
Stephan Reinhardt - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The winery’s calling card, says Keller. Includes a higher percentage of Kirchspiel (45%) than normal, with one barrel from vines planted 1964, two barrels of Morstein and AbtsE and a bit of Hubacker. Also the younger Frauenberg vines. Average vine age 30 years. No longer really the young vines though that is how this cuvée started. 40,000 bottles produced. To be released May 2025. Cask sample.
Lightly flinty aroma, pure salty-sour citrus. More mineral and less Riesling-defined than usual. High acid, great tension. Minerality of the vintage and Kirchspiel. A serious Von der Fels. Tight, bone dry, sinewy but with a mouth-watering grapefruit-like fruit foundation. Texture, too, with high dry extract in 2024 giving body to balance the freshness. Acidity is high but integrated. Drink 2027-2035.
17/20 points
Julia Harding MW - jancisrobinson.com